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Noticed  CDG · Paris

Why some Paris shops close for weeks in summer

Written and photographed by Ethan Ward
Went: 2 months

Photo of metal shutters pulled down over a boulangerie and the shop beside it, under an empty covered walkway in Paris.

A boulangerie with its shutter down in August.
ETHAN WARD

THE SHORT ANSWER
Many smaller shops in Paris close for their yearly holiday sometime between mid-July and the end of August. The notice on the door says when they’ll be back.

WHAT I SAW

Back in the 12th arrondissement, I noticed shops with their shutters down and signs announcing when they would reopen. The change was easier to see because I knew the neighborhood. I had my usual places for groceries, coffee, and laundry. Along those familiar routes, some doors were closed for more than an afternoon.

Photo of Charlie’s, a corner café in Paris, with its shutter down below a white apartment building.

Charlie’s, closed for the August break.
ETHAN WARD

The city was still busy in other ways. I came across a market, bought fruit, and sat in Starbucks. But the notices gave the streets a timetable. These businesses were telling customers when to come back.

WHY IT’S THAT WAY

Paris’s tourist office says many smaller shops close for annual holidays from mid-July through the end of August. The dates vary by business. A closed shop on a neighborhood street and an open store on the Champs-Élysées can both be part of the same summer day.

There is a longer history behind the time off. France’s National Assembly records how the paid-holiday law of 1936 gave qualifying workers 14 days of paid leave. Its implementation that August allowed hundreds of thousands of employees to go on holiday for the first time. That history gives some context to the breaks; it doesn’t establish why any particular owner chose a particular week.

On the streets I walked, the notices were the useful part. They explained that a familiar place was taking a break and would be back. I could read the return date and keep walking.

HOW I FOUND OUT

The observations come from my stay in the 12th. The explanation draws on Paris je t’aime, the city’s tourist office, and the National Assembly’s history of paid holidays. I haven’t interviewed the owners of the shops I photographed.

THE STORY FROM THIS TRIP

Shoppers walking between produce stalls at a tree-lined outdoor market in Paris.

I went back to Paris and left my afternoons open
The market, the coffee, and the unplanned afternoon around those familiar streets.

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