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Picks  LAX · Los Angeles

13 things to do in Los Angeles, from someone who lived there 13 years

The places I’d send a friend, from the hike I did several times a week to the flower market downtown.

Written and photographed by Ethan Ward
Lived there: 13 years

You only get so many days off, so every pick says how often I went and when I last checked. Then you make the call.

I left the Walk of Fame off. These are the places that gave me a sense of the whole city, including the parts that are hard to look at.

L.A. also changes fast. The bar where I had one of my best birthday dinners, Employees Only, closed in September. The Barclay, the 1897 hotel on my block, is low-income housing now. I’m glad it is. It will never look the way it did when I walked through it. If something on this list matters to you, don’t assume it’ll be there next time.

01
HOLLYWOOD HILLS
Runyon Canyon

Photo of the view from the top of Runyon Canyon, across Hollywood to the downtown Los Angeles skyline.
Photo of Ethan Ward in a USC sweatshirt at the top of Runyon Canyon, making a peace sign.
Photo of the sun setting behind the hills at Runyon Canyon.
Photo of Ethan Ward and his cousin Yolanda Armstrong smiling at Runyon Canyon, with the hills behind them.
ETHAN WARDSWIPE FOR MORE → 4 PHOTOS

The place I loved most in L.A. I went several times a week when I could. It’s a real hike in the middle of the city, and from the top you can see from the Pacific to downtown. I took my cousin Yolanda up here when she visited in 2014.

Go early, because parking near the Fuller Avenue entrance fills up, and bring water. The West Ridge Trail reopened in February 2026 after more than a year closed because of the Sunset Fire.

Price · Free, sunrise to sunset

Went · Several times a week, for years
Still good as of · October 2026

02
HOLLYWOOD HILLS
A guided trail ride

Photo of a guided trail ride on a dirt ridge in the hills above Los Angeles, seen between a horse’s ears.
Photo of riders in a line ahead on a ridge trail under a gray sky.
Photo from the saddle of a guided ride, with other horses alongside on a canyon trail.
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I rode a horse up a canyon trail with a guide, which shows you the hills in a way hiking doesn’t. You don’t need to know how to ride.

Sunset Ranch Hollywood, in Beachwood Canyon, runs guided rides every day, and its 2-hour ride heads toward the Hollywood Sign. Wear long pants and closed-toe shoes, and book the 2-hour ride ahead.

Price · About $65 to $75 for 1 hour, $125 to $165 for 2 hours

Went · Yes, once
Still good as of · October 2026
Link · I earn a cut if you book

03
GRIFFITH PARK
Griffith Observatory

Photo of the dirt trail up to Griffith Observatory, its white domes on the hill above.
Photo of Ethan Ward sitting on the lawn at Griffith Observatory, with the Hollywood Sign behind him.
Photo of a brass telescope on display inside Griffith Observatory.
Photo of an exhibit at Griffith Observatory under a ceiling of stars.
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I love this place. Walk up the trail from the Greek Theatre, or take the DASH bus from the Vermont/Sunset Metro station. Inside are telescopes and exhibits on the stars, and the lawn out front faces the Hollywood Sign. It’s closed Mondays.

Price · Free; planetarium shows $12; the DASH bus is 50 cents

Went · Yes, many times
Still good as of · October 2026

04
VAN NUYS, BURBANK OR SANTA MONICA
A helicopter tour

Photo of the Hollywood Sign from a helicopter at sunset.
Photo of the downtown Los Angeles towers from a helicopter.
Photo of Dodger Stadium lit up at dusk, seen from a helicopter, with downtown behind it.
Photo of the beach and coastline from a helicopter, with Ethan Ward’s feet at the bottom of the frame.
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I booked online and picked the longer ride, which wrapped around downtown, the Hollywood Hills, and the coast near sunset. I saw Dodger Stadium lit up from above.

I don’t remember the company. Group 3 Aviation flies from Van Nuys, Lite Flight from Burbank, and Maverick from Santa Monica.

Price · About $250 to $600 a person for a 30-minute flight, depending on the company

Went · Yes, once
Still good as of · October 2026
Link · I earn a cut if you book

05
PACIFIC PALISADES
The Getty Villa

Photo of the long pool and fountain statue in the garden at the Getty Villa.
Photo of the Getty Villa’s garden courtyard, with bronze busts along a narrow pool.
Photo of a red-walled colonnade at the Getty Villa.
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The Getty’s second museum holds Greek, Roman, and Etruscan art, in a building modeled on an ancient Roman villa, with a long pool in the garden. It closed after the Palisades fire in January 2025 and reopened that June. Entry is free, but you need a timed reservation, and it’s closed Tuesdays.

Price · Free; parking $25, or $15 after 3 p.m.

Went · Yes, 3 times
Still good as of · October 2026

Photo of Ethan Ward and his cousin Yolanda Armstrong taking a selfie on Venice Beach.
Photo of Ethan Ward sitting barefoot on the sand at Venice Beach, taken by his cousin Yolanda Armstrong.
Photo of Ethan Ward posing with a costumed street performer on the Venice boardwalk.
Photo of Ethan Ward standing in front of a painted wall in Venice.
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It’s tacky, and I’d still send you. My cousin Yolanda Armstrong visited me in July 2014 and wanted to see the boardwalk, so I took her. It was the last time I saw her. She died unexpectedly in 2017, and my last photo with her is from that afternoon, along with one she took of me on the sand. That’s why this one makes the list, and I’m sure you’ll make your own memories there.

Go on a weekday or early on a weekend, and walk or bike north on the beach path to Santa Monica.

Price · Free

Went · Yes, many times
Still good as of · October 2026

Photo of the main aisle at Grand Central Market, under neon stall signs.
Photo of Ethan Ward in front of a wall of neon signs at Grand Central Market.
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I lived 2 blocks away and walked over all the time. It’s been a market since 1917, a hall of food stalls and neon that runs from Broadway through to Hill Street. China Cafe has been there since 1959. Angels Flight, the short funicular, is right across Hill Street.

Price · Free to walk in; a meal runs about $10 to $25

Went · Yes, all the time
Still good as of · October 2026

Photo of Ethan Ward holding a bunch of sunflowers on a downtown Los Angeles street.
Photo of buckets of sunflowers and other flowers in the Los Angeles Flower District.
Photo of the Sunday farmers market tents on 5th Street in downtown Los Angeles.
Photo of baskets of strawberries at the farmers market.
Photo of vegetables cooking in two pans on Ethan Ward’s stove.
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My favorites were the sunflowers. The Flower District on Wall Street opens before sunrise, vendors sell out early, and it’s closed Sundays, so go Saturday morning and bring cash.

On Sundays I went to the farmers market on 5th Street, between Main and Broadway, and went home to cook what I bought.

Price · Flower market entry is $2; the farmers market is free to walk

Went · Most weekends, when I lived downtown
Still good as of · October 2026

Photo of the Hotel Barclay at 4th and Main in downtown Los Angeles, with its vertical sign.
Photo of the Barclay’s lobby before its renovation, with marble columns and a tiled floor.
Photo of a staircase inside the Barclay before its renovation.
Photo of a long hallway inside the Barclay before its renovation.
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The old buildings in the Historic Core are why I wanted to live downtown. My apartment was at 4th and Main, on the same block as the Barclay, a hotel from 1897. Before it was renovated as low-income housing, I got to walk through it and photograph it. People live there now, so look from the street.

To see inside other old downtown buildings, the Los Angeles Conservancy runs walking tours every Saturday, including the Bradbury Building’s lobby.

Price · Conservancy tours $25, about 2 hours

Went · I lived on its block
Still good as of · October 2026

Photo of the flower Ethan Ward painted on a graffiti wall in downtown Los Angeles.
Photo of Ethan Ward crouching beside the wall where he painted, at night.
Photo of a painted wall at night in downtown Los Angeles.
Photo of a can of spray paint held up at night.
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Graffiti is a big part of L.A. culture, and I love it. I went with a friend who paints all the time, and I made a flower. The spot where we painted has closed, which is how it goes here.

You can paint legally in a lesson at Graff Tours’ studio downtown, with an artist teaching you, or at the Venice Art Walls on weekends, free with a permit. Painting anywhere else without the owner’s OK is vandalism.

Price · Graff Tours lessons about $48 to $96; the Venice Art Walls are free with a permit

Went · Yes, once
Still good as of · October 2026
Link · I earn a cut if you book

Photo of a street near Skid Row at dawn, with the downtown skyline ahead.
Photo of a wide street on Skid Row early in the morning.
Photo of the downtown skyline from a Skid Row intersection at dawn.
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I spent a lot of time on Skid Row as a reporter covering homelessness, and I met some amazing people there. Volunteering is how I’d suggest you see it, because you go to help. It can change how you see unhoused people.

The Downtown Women’s Center is a good place to start. Volunteers there take a virtual training and usually commit to a weekly shift. The Midnight Mission also takes volunteers for a few hours at a time. Sign up first, and don’t photograph people.

Price · Free; sign up online first

Went · Often, while I was reporting
Still good as of · October 2026

Photo of downtown Los Angeles at night from high in the Wilshire Grand Center.
Photo of the sunset through a window high in the InterContinental Los Angeles Downtown.
Photo of downtown Los Angeles by day from a window high in the InterContinental.
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The InterContinental fills the top floors of the Wilshire Grand Center, the tallest building in L.A. I stayed there twice for the views alone. You don’t need a room. Spire 73, the open-air bar on the 73rd floor, takes reservations and is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Book a table at sunset and bring a jacket.

Price · A $60 minimum per person for 2 hours was listed in July 2026. Missing your booking, or canceling less than 24 hours ahead, costs $20 a person

Went · Yes, 2 stays
Still good as of · October 2026
Link · I earn a cut if you book

Photo of the sun setting over boulders in Joshua Tree National Park, with Ethan Ward’s feet in the frame.
Photo of a campsite among tall boulders in Joshua Tree National Park.
Photo of boulders and desert hills in Joshua Tree, seen from a rock where Ethan Ward is sitting.
Photo of a tent pitched under a tree at a Joshua Tree campsite.
Photo of plates of steak, green beans, and tomatoes on a campsite table in Joshua Tree.
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It isn’t L.A., but it’s the getaway everyone takes, and it was transformative for me. I went once, with a group of friends, and we camped for 2 nights. It wasn’t glamping. We slept in tents, cooked at our site, and walked to a public toilet, so bring toilet paper, and bring water, since most campgrounds don’t have any. I’ve never been back, and it’s one of my favorite memories.

It’s about 140 miles east. Black Rock and Indian Cove take reservations from October through May; most of the others are first come, first served. Download your park pass and a map before you go, because cell service is poor.

Price · $30 per car, good for 7 days

Went · Yes, 2 nights
Still good as of · October 2026

What I’d skip

The Hollywood Walk of Fame, as a reason to come
Walk it if you’re nearby. Then go up Runyon.

THE STORY FROM THIS CITY

Ethan Ward standing beside his car at a Los Angeles dealership before selling it.

Why I left Los Angeles after 13 years
I had built a journalism career in the city where I once slept in my car, and I still wanted to leave the United States.

Each issue has new picks. When an old one stops holding up, the next issue says so.

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